Biarritz – Class, Culture and Cuisine in the Southwest of France Part 2

Most of you responded to my first post with a puzzled look on your face “Bia -what?” Never heard of it! Surf mecca? In France? Wah? So let me help you out a bit. Indulge me for a moment please.

As you can see, we look out our window onto the Bay of Biscay where the waters are tepid and the surf gets large (but I’m saving that for later!). We are only 22 miles from Spain and it’s a breeze to cross into Spain. Quite fun actually, because without warning, songs and voices on the car radio immediately switch from French to Spanish and that’s how you know you’ve crossed the border. Aside from that – both sides of the border in this area are what is called “Basque Country”.

Biarritz itself got its start in whaling and features whales on its coat of arms.

Fortunately for us all, the whaling industry quickly gave way to medical tourism when in the 18th century, doctors claimed that the ocean at Biarritz had healing properties and inspired pilgrims to migrate to the beach to cure what ailed them. Have you ever heard of the term “Thalassotherapy”? Thalassotherapy is the use of seawater as a form of therapy. It is based on the use of seawater, sea products, and shore climate. Practitioners claim the properties of seawater have beneficial effects upon the pores of the skin. You will find many thalassotherapy spas here in Biarritz. The Sofitel Hotel and the Regina have gorgeous thalassotherapy spas. There is even an entire neighborhood with street names of Rue De Thalas, Rue de Term, Ave Thalasso. This idea of wrapping oneself in seaweed, dipping into saltwater while ensconced in a marine environment that began in the 18th century, and runs strong today, was exactly what prompted Empress Eugenie (wife of Napolean III) to build a palace right on the beach here in Biarritz!

Her palace remains intact and looks beautiful from the outside. And the gate is as far as I got before I was accosted by a security guard asking me to show my room key. Apparently one is not allowed inside those gates unless willing to pay upwards of $600 per night to sleep in a small room. Fear not dear reader for John McGraw is soon joining me in Biarritz and when that man hears “do not trespass” he hears angels sing “Welcome” and I am confident he will find a way to get me inside those gates. I’ve heard it’s lovely inside but will have to leave you hanging for a few more days until I can report the truth to you.

Empress Eugenie’s palace then inspired the construction of a massive casino on the ocean’s edge and things on the coast really started thumping. Biarritz quickly became what it is today – a gorgeous slice of coastline with pristine waters, epic waves, and a culture of glamour and style. Let’s start with the architecture to give you a sense of what I mean. The streets here are narrow and tree-lined and have some of the most exquisite homes I have ever seen. Take a look!

Most of these homes are in the neighborhood between where Lily lives and where I am staying in the town center. The ancient stones, combined with wooden shutters and balconies, are exquisite works of art.

And then there is this beauty! Also one of my favorite shots on this overcast, grey day. (Thank you seagulls for showing up to the party. ) This is called Villa Cyrano after Cyrano de Bergerac and holds court at 18 Avenue de L’Imperatrice. It has been featured in quite a few french movies. None of which I know of. But I was told it is quite a popular site in French cinema by the tour guide at the lighthouse only a few blocks north.

Now let’s take a look at the traditional Basque homes that proliferate this city. As you can see, traditional Basque homes combine stone with wood and feature the beautiful Basque-red colors as accents.

There are literally blocks upon blocks of these beauties lined up for one’s viewing pleasure. When you come to Biarritz – and I know you will! I highly recommend renting an e-bike or e-scooter and grant yourself a day or at least an afternoon to traipse through the hills of this city. Stone bridges, abundant birdlife, impeccably maintained homes, tree-covered, shaded streets and always an ocean view will welcome you. Do it!

Thank you for indulging me on my architectural rant. It’s something I could only do once I knew Lily was tucked away in school and I had time on my hands. You know what else one can do with time on their hands?! Visit the LIGHTHOUSE or the “Phare”, as they say in French.

Standing at 240 feet above sea level, the Biarritz Lighthouse offers breathtaking 360 degree views of the ocean, mountains, and the Basque region. It was built in 1834 and has 234 steps to the top. I failed to do my 6am pilates workout on this day so I owed the universe the climb. Don’t make the mistake I made and go to the lighthouse without euros in your pocket. The cost to climb this ancient form of “Stairmaster” torture is only 3 euros but they turn away silly people like me who show up with only a credit card and the urge to climb. My lack of preparation meant a trip back to the city for me to retrieve some “cashola” but the walk back through the gardens to return to the “Phare”, this time with euros in hand, was worth the trip.

Well, I am happy to report that the climb was not bad at all. I spent more time in line waiting to get to the lighthouse than I spent in the lighthouse. When you get to the top there is a 360 degree “balcony” that you can walk around and snap photos. Apparently I was breathing too heavily to remember to break out the camera so you’ll just have to do the climb yourself. I did, however, record the climb from the interior in time-lapse and shared it on instagram at dothis_thing123.

Tomorrow I am going to take you to the markets of Biarritz to explore Basque food and handmade Basque goods. I’m even planning to take a dive into the surf culture that abounds here. For now, however, me and my noodle-like legs are going to enjoy a refreshment in one of my favorite bars here in Biarritz, “PrIMA”. Come join me! She’s a beauty and plays 70s funk and dance. You had me at martini…